Ei lähe, jääb kriips alla keskmise. Oli vahepeal ka mõte termostaat vahetada aga jäi sinnapaika...
Panen ka väikese väljavõtte remondijuhendist:
The engine cooling thermostat is a wax pellet driven, reverse poppet choke type. The thermostat is designed to provide the fastest warm up possible by preventing leakage through it and to guarantee a minimum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93°C (192 to 199°F). The thermostat also will automatically reach wide open so it will not restrict flow to the radiator as temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to around 104°C (220°F). Above this temperature the coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan, and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT TESTING The thermostat is operated by a wax filled container (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant reaches a predetermined temperature the wax pellet expands enough to overcome the closing spring and water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open. Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermostat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermostat with a screwdriver. The thermostat that opens too soon type failure mode is included in the on-board diagnosis. The check engine light will not be lit by an open too soon condition. If it has failed open, a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) will be set. Do not change a thermostat for lack of heater performance or temperature gauge position, unless a DTC is present. For other probable causes, (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Thermostat failing shut is the normal long term mode of failure, and normally, only on high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will indicate this. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
See jahutusvedeliku madalam temp. on mootorile ühes mõttes hea ja teises mõttes halb. hea selle poolest, et siis ei pea õli nii palju jahutama, sest õli üks omadusi määrmise kõrval on jahutamine. Halb selles suhtes, et mootori tööks võetakse mõni gramm rohkem kütust.
Õli teema juurde jõudes on asi mul selles, et minu masina mootor võtab seda mõnuga ning vajab 2-3tuh km tagant lisamist. Teisest küljest, kui kasutad keskmise kvaliteediga õli siis see kipub kõrgematel temperatuuridel vahutam ja sadet tekitama - mis ei ole selle mootorile üldse hea. Üks lahendus on lisada õlijahutuse radiaator, kuid siis on vaja väiksemat/madalamat filtrit hankida. Jahutuse adapter paigaldatakse mootoriploki ja õlifiltri vahele ning see langetab filtrit ~3-4cm alla poole.... 300M/concordil 2,7 mootoriga peaks see olams olema. Samas suurendab see 1L võrra õli kogust, mis on hea. 2,8 V6 audi mootoril on üle 5L õli Sebringul 4,7L
_________________ Ei ole olemas õiget teed aga ka mitte valet teed. On raskeid teid ja on kergeid teid. Tähtis on see, et teelise siht on selge, samm on kindel ja king ei pigista. Kõik muu selle ümber on tühi pläma
|